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Straight Shoulder Rules. 
Systems and Methods 



OF THE 



Present Day 



BY 



OLIVER T. DOOLITTLE 



Coats and Vests 



PHILADELPHIA 

OLIVER T. DOOLITTLE, Publisher 

1 90 1 




Copyrighted, 1901, i;\ OLIVER T. D()(JLITTLE 



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I'KE.S-S OF SHER]SrAN & CO. 

PHILADELPHIA 



PREFACE. 



IN the introduction of an entirely new rule and system of Men's, Women's and Boys' garment 
cutting you will find them in this present age, in all their workings, as having for their 
base an established principle for foundation ; and these are the results of over forty years 
of practical experience in the tailoring business. (In making the distinction in appliance of 
rule and system it is better to explain and designate them separately in giving points as to 
their diflerent merits.) 

Since retiring from the tailoring business I have evolved this system whereby it can be 
comprehensively, easily and practically imparted, as all problems in their different forms of 
working reach one and the same result as proof, differing from the old rules and systems of 
the past, and do not require the time and experience to find out from them the changes neces- 
sary to be made, as in the old. 

There is nothing egotistical in the above mention of the old, as it is an open secret with 
all experienced cutters that they can produce but poor results working out problems from only 
the knowledge first taught them. It is from years of actual experience of the many old, and 
from their unpractical workings, that this book is evolved. It embodies all that is essential to 
guide one right from the start. First we have the proportionate rule foundation and that based 
on principle, with proof of the points and location as going together in harmony with each 
other ; the established center, to prove from as a rule without proofs, is not to be relied upon, 
and one that proves as to points located must necessarily prove itself right. A good rule must 
be based on principle, and by it proportion to work from. The better the proportion (and all 
are not of the same) as to their points and location, the better the rule to apply measures as 
taken to govern. Different rules and systems have different points of location, and when 
measures are applied as taken to a draft in drafting, points are placed in a position to apply 
measures that do not go as placed nor as taken, in most rules, to quite a space ; and, in conse- 
querice of it all, points are out of proper location and not in harmony as they go together. 

The measurement rule to draft by measure, having the proportion as a guide, it will be 
found often of great assistance to help decisions, especially for the long-neck form ; that no rule 
governs the location as well as the use of proportion to locate the front shoulder-point in har- 
mony with the back, as to the extra depth taken for back scye depth, while the measure taken 
for the stooping form may call for as long, the front strap measure would locate for it, while 
not in the long, erect neck form. If a measure could be so taken on any part of shoulder of 
the form by the holding of tape to it and feeling for the locadon to locate by and then to apply 
it on a flat surface, as that of taking over the round in the same twisdngs and turns, there may 
be in it more than guess-work, surely no certainty of good result and one of the many that 
are not practical in the old. 

In the introduction of this work the author will, in preface and other writings, give in it 
his personal views and experiences. Many may think it unnecessary for lengthy explanations 
and remarks, and that to abbreviate would be greatly appreciated. As this work differs with 
most all in the working, it will not assume that while some do the major percentage in this line 
ot pursuits, they do not know it all, and by those it may be appreciated, while the practical ones 
of experience, and many who are not, may think differently. It will not harm any, and will, no 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



doubt, [)rove most valuable to man), as this work is being published to be the privilege of all, 
anil he leaves it, of course, to the ojHion ot all, as to the acceptance of this privilege. In any 
event, it will serve the intent ot the author by saving time hereafter for fi^equent calls for it by 
now giving it to them, leaving to any their own criticisms on it, and holding no one responsible 
for any mentions in the work, and gives all rules and systems as entirely original and 
individual. 

The pattern s\'stem of changing from one lorm to that ot another, either ot one's own 
pattern or of others — this system is included in this book, as well as in all of the other different 
branches of this work. It is very valuable and of great assistance, as in the illustrations of 
changes for the different forms and production of different garments it enables one to be self- 
reliant ; it instructs in all its branches, enabling you to better i)roduce without th(; trying-on, 
which has harmed tailoring more than anything. You can work with more confidence — in fact, 
it is the most artistic and scientific part of tailoring, and only what you do in trying-on a gar- 
ment Irom the other ways of producing the same results. It is of assistance as well when 
drafting by measure to know the changes and their effects, as this system will illustrate to one 
if it is better to illustrate liy it, then it is surely better to apply; and giving as it does the 
scientific and practical part of producing, as by the changes therein they enable one to work 
changes intelligently, to work with rules of proportion and measure, making by it a system to 
better produce a pattern to any form. In fact, one can say it is a trying-on in the production, 
anil will give the e.xperience acquired of the advanced and practical cutter, as well as broaden 
one's ideas, which requires years of practice in trying-on to find out. Witliout this many are 
working in the dark, even with years of practice, repeating the same changes over and over 
again without the knowledge as to how to correct before they try on what they do after, and 
that experience should teach. 

The formation of this work in all the separate branches has had, before its publication, 
to perfect it, the personal attention of the author, and by personal solicitation, giving instruction 
and teaching in all the branches, and having the opportunity, by so doing, to see the advantage 
of it in workine, as well the benefit of the best of criticism on them, and has enabled him to 
strengthen any weak points, to complete this work for publication in a clear and comprehensive 
iHcUiner as to forms for working out all problems as to their different forms, and with satis- 
factory results. 

This work is arranged as to instructions given in teaching, while all is taught from 
lessons taken. It would be impossible to impart to any one, in a course of instructions, all this 
book contains, though nothing- to foro^et in the rules or systems that the eye would not recall. 
The write-up of explanations, remarks and suggestions would be difficult to recall at all times, 
as well to think of in giving instructions. Many rules, systems or works on garment cutting 
will not harm one, as there is some good in all ; they will not harm a cutter half as quickly as 
one bail one, and the more agreeing on the same location or producing of points, the better 
you can afford their adoption and judge by them if you know it all. The bad ones are as con- 
vincing of wrong as the good ones will convince in the right. I recommend all, but more 
especially this of mine. 

The claim for something new in the present age, and also the result of practical 
experience from the year 1S57 to the date of completion to issue for publication, in the year 
1 901, is the author's reason for writing this book, and during the above time he has had the 
benefit of experience of many good rules and some poor ones to experiment upon. One who 
originates surely ought to be able to impart. 

This will be the first and final issue of this work in all of the several branches, as the 
author has intended in the completeness of this work that there shall be no requiring for a 
second, third or fourth edition. The demand for this work is a guarantee, and has made the 
supply that governs in all business. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND MPLTHODS 5 

Why it is essential to give the three forms contained in this book for producing a 
result is, that the beginner will work changes of the practical and experienced cutter intelli- 
gently, as no set rule or system of working will produce for the different forms, and in this 
work you have the foundation of proportion that drafts an artistic and well-balanced pattern 
with proofs as guide — one that will produce for any form with small changes, and will give by 
the rules within the rule ones for all separation and points as guide in shaping the scientific art 
part of producing. 



CONTENTS. 



Foundation — Rule i, Draft A, Proportion, ...... lo 

Proofs — Foundation Draft of, . . . . . . . .12 

Sleeve, . . . . . . . . . . .14 

Measures — To Take and Apply, . . . . . . . .16 

Measure — Rule 2, . . . . . . . . . .18 

Cutaway-Frock — Rule Draft C, . . . . . . . .20 

Double-Breasted Frock — Draft D, . . . . . .22 

Dress Coat, . . . . . . . . . . -24 

Raglan — Rule Draft, ...... ... 26 

Inverness — Rule Draft, . . . . . . . . .28 

Shoulder Cape — Rule Draft, ........ 30 

Skirt — Rule Draft of Cutaway, . . . . . . -32 

Skirt — Rule Draft Double-Breasted Frock, . . . . . .32 

Skirt — Rule Draft Dress Coat, . . . . . . . -32 

Vest — Reduced from Rule 1, Draft A, . . . . . . .34 

Vest — To Take from the Coat Draft, . . . . . . -36 

Vest — Rule Draft Proportion or Measure, ...... 38 

Vest — Rule Measures to Take and Apply, . . . . . . .40 

Scales — To Apply, ......... 42 

Remarks — Cause and effect, . . . . . . . . -47 

Systkm of Pattern Ili.ustkatinc — Coats. 

Long Neck Form, with collar, . . . . . . . -52 

Short Neck Form, with collar, ........ 54 

Neck Gorge, . . . . . . . . . . -56 

Erect Form, .......... 58 

Stooping Form, . . . . . . . . . .60 

Corpulent Form, Sack, ......... 62 

Corpulent Form, Frock Cutaway, . . . . . . . .64 

Corpulent Form, Double-Breasted Frock, ...... 66 

Corpulent Form, Dress Coat, . . . . . . . .68 

Double-Breasted Under Sack, ........ 70 

Double-Breasted Overcoat, Sack, . . . . . . . -72 

Fly Front or Chesterfield Overcoat, with fly or to button through, ... 74 

Drapery — Erect and Stooping Forms, for all Sack Garments, . . . -76 

Front Edge, to Tighten, ......... 78 

Blade, to Place Seams, . . . . . . . . .80 

Tuxedo, Shawl Roll, . . . . . . . . .82 

Tuxedo, Peaked Lapel, with Collar, . . . . . . . .84 

Tourist Coat, .......... 86 

Paddock Coats, .......... 88 

Cassock, with collar, ......... 90 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



Diagram — No. i, Explanation From, 

Seams — No. 2, Side Body center division shape, 

Back and Side Body No. 3, Lengthen, Shorten and Separate, 

Whole Back— No. 4, ..... . 

Sleeves and Back — Nos. 5 and 6, Lengthen and Shorten, 

Skirt Drapery — No. 7, . 

Skirt — No. 8, More Spring after Completion, 

System of Pattern Illi'strating — Vests 

Measures, System to Take and Apply, 

Single-Breasted, 2 forms of collar, .... 

Single-Breasted, without Collar, .... 

Dress, Single and Double Breast, .... 

Erect Form, ....... 

Stooping Form, ....... 

Corpulent Form, with Scale for all. 

Military, 2 forms of collar, ..... 

Double-Breasted, one-piece collar, .... 

Double-Breasted, three-piece collar, .... 

Double-Breasted, Albert, ..... 

Clerical, Diagram with Collar, ..... 

Clerical, Explanation Illustrated, .... 

Hints and Suggestions, 



92 
92 
92 
92 
92 
92 
92 



96 
98 
100 
102 
104 
106 
108 
1 10 
1 12 
114 
116 
118 
1 21 
125 



FOUNDATION RULES 



*S" e^ t?* t?* 



lo DOOLITTLF/S STRAIGHT SH0ULDP:R RULES, SYSTEMS y\ND METHODS 



F 



FOl NDATION— RULE 1— DRAFT A^PROPORTION. 

IRST draw lint A (construction lint-), thc-n line !> at right angle. Go out from line A on 
line 15 to C one-eighth and one-half inch. iM-om C to 1) one-twenty-fourth. Shape line 
Iroin line A to D. Co down on line A from line B to line ¥. one-fourth. From line B to 
line F one-half. F"rom line F to line C, one-half. Then from line B to line H the full length 
of draft. S(|uare out from line .\ on line I{ the distance required for width of back antl F G H 
to the tLill distance required for front edge of draft. ( io out on breast line F from line A to I 
one-third and one-tweUth. From I square up line | above line E one-eighth to K. Then line 
from K to D for top of back shoulder. Go down on line J from line E one-si.\teenth for back 
notch ot sleeve. Go up on line j from I to L one-twelfth. Go out from L to M one-twenty- 
fourth. Co out on line H to ( ) one-third. Back from O to 1' one-eighth. Then draw lines 
from O and P to I for separation of back from forepart. Go up from line G to O two inches. 
Ihen line across lines O and P. Go tlown from to R one-third. (The points O and R are 
given as guides in shaping separation of back and forepart, R being the larger point of hip and 
O the smaller ot waist.) Then divide equally the distance from L to M. From that distance an 
opening of three-eighths inch to N. From N shape the back to 1 to O to opposite of R to O. 
.Shape the forepart from iM to ojjposite O to R to P. Go out on line F from ] to T one-eighth. 
Establish the center line .S by squaring from line B to T and below line C. Go out from line A 
on line F to U two-thirds. From U to V one-twenty-fourth. P>om V square up line W for 
front of arm scye. Go up on line W from \' one-si.xteenth for front notch of sleeve and from 
V up one-si.xth (a guide point in forming front arm scye). Go out from V to Y for front line X 
one halt. .Square down for line X from line B to Y to line H. P'rom line B go down on line X 
to Z one-si.xth. From Z to AO come in one and one-quarter inch. This will be for collar notch, 
b'rom y\( ) extentl line for button stand lU) to line C. 'Phen go out from line A on line B to CO 
two-thirds, one-sixth and one-twentv-fburth. From C( ) scjuare a line down three or four inches. 
Draw line from CO to line E at line A for top of front shoulder line, taking the distance from 
CO to center line .S at UO for the width. From DO go down on line .S to EO one-thirty-sec- 
ond. From PLO shape to shoulder line. Take the distance of front shoulder width from CO to 
1 ), and make the back shoulder width three-eighths inch shorter. As to all seams joining- in 
ec|ual lengths, the front shoulder tlecreases in length at a seam in, while the back increases the 
reverse to the three-eighths-inch difference from the outside lengths. Then shape arm scye 
from back width at K to back notch to N to T to front notch. Then from EO to one-sixth and 
to front notch. To form neck gorge draw line FO from AO to center line .S at line B. Then 
from CO to line FO go one-sixth and line to the one-sixth. Take the half, a one-twelfth, and from 
that one-twelfth line to the fork where lines cross ; from fork go up one-twenty-fourth. Then 
shape from CO to the one-fourth to one-sixth to AO. To form full length of draft forepart at 
bottom, sweep at C(^ from P on line II forward, and (as proof) take length of draft back, and 
from AO go down that length to whatever [)oint on sweep line style or shape calls for. In shap- 
ing front edge of draft, go out one-fourth inch from line X at Y and shape from Z to Y to line G 
for required style. 

All mentions of whatsoever divisions in this, or any part of this, work are those of the 
breast measurement, and are to be so implied without further mention. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



I I 



SCALE I ^/3 



IJI'^Hyi'liM 




Foundation — Rule i — Draft A — Proportion. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



1)1J AFT OF PKOOF FOUNDATION. 

B^' ct-nter lint- S (at T) will be (ound in lollovving the arrow heads that all points as to con- 
necting" 140 tOL^ether as one in e<]ual and exact distances, as in |)rool of each other and by 
them, ])roving' the center as to right location, and, as will in proof, do all points as draw- 
ing in intkience one over the other and harmonize in their locations as to being correct. 

The shoulder line balance of equal half, also the end shoulder point and the heaviest 
point ot hip, are in line by this rule in ruling, as do many of the other lines, as will be seen in 
their crossing by points as given, making it in all a selt-proving rule, and having principle as a 
base foundation to work on. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 13 




Proof Draft of Foundation. 



14 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



SLEEVE. 

TO draft a sleeve : If for two parts (top and under), fold the width and length (paper) required 
for sleeve. Place folded crease from you, using that crease as a construction line, A ; from 
it square and line towards you top line, B ; then from line A on line B come back one-third, 
and Irom the one-third come back one-eighth. From the one-eighth square and line down line 
C to lull distance for sleeve length. This from line A to C will form one-half width for sleeve. 
Then Irom line B at top go down on line C one-twelfth: irom one-twelith down one-sixth, from 
one-sixth down one-sixteenth ; then from the one-twelfth at line C square out a line the distance 
of one-tweltth. From the one-sixth at line C, square across to line A, marking only on line A 
for the front notch of sleeve at forearm. From the one-sixteenth at line C square across to line 
A and line back a distance of one-tweltth tor line ot under-sleeve depth ; then find half of sleeve 
width at top line B, and from that half distance square down a line to under-arm-sleeve depth 
for line D ; placing now the square as a triangle with point resting down on center line D, with 
long arm of square to rest and touch at fork of lines B and C at top, and the short arm of square 
resting and touching the tork ot line A and B at top. Then on those triangular lines go in from 
the fork of A and B on short arm of square one-eighth, and on long arm go in one-sixteenth. 
Form the top sleeve head from the one-twelfth down on line C by shaping to the one-sixteenth 
on long arm triangular line ; then to the one-third on line B ; then to the half center line D ; 
then to the one-eiohth in on short arm of triangular line and to the front forearm mark for notch 
of sleeve opposite the one-sixth on line C. Form the under part (or half of sleeve) from the 
one-twelfth in from one-twelfth on line C. going down on the triangular line to the point of square 
on line D, curving a line from it to the one-twelfth in from line A and to the front notch of tore- 
arm ot sleeve draft, observing in the shaping ot undersleeve from the one-tweltth to notch that 
it conforms to the shape as in tront scye to coat draft from U to notch in draft A. In the inseam 
measure of sleeve length at forearm it is taken from bottom line of armpit to the length required 
at cuff. Then place the point ot square at that distance, resting the front edge of long arm ot 
square at line D at top of line B. By this you will find by the short arm of square the proper 
shape tor bottom slope as well, and at the same time determine and mark the distance for size 
of cufi by square when in that position. From the width of cuft at bottom take the distance to 
the one-twelfth on line C, and the half of that will be the elbow location ; from that line to the 
one-twelfth in from line C for under part of sleeve at top, and from elbow line to bottom at cuft 
width. Then shape from the one-twelfth in from line C to elbow and to full length of outside or 
back sleeve to cuff witith. Cut out draft on the round line of top sleeve head from the one- 
twelfth on line C to the notch at forearm on line A ; then the back line of top sleeve from one- 
twelfth at line C to elbow and to full distance to cuff width; from that cut bottom shape to line 
A. Then open out the draft and cut the undersleeve as shaped from one-twelfth in from line C 
to elbow, and from the same one-twelfth to front arm notch. You now have a draft to place a 
separation at any distance wished. 

If measure is taken on out or back seam for length of sleeve the elbow is then established 
by it from one-twelfth on line C and to a full distance at cuff; that distance from line A is regu- 
lated by style. From the full distance of back seam at cuff width, line to line A, and from that 
line formed go up on line A one and one-quarter inch and shape from back to the one and one- 
quarter. 

I find the best criticisms on sleeve length favor the taking of inseam as being the most 
accurate. In using a one-piece sleeve of a half and half the paper will not require folding, and 
line A will be constructed in place. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 15 





Sleeves. 



1 6 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDKR RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



MEASURE, TO TAKE AND APPLY-FOR BODY-FRO( K, UNDER AND OVER SACK 

DRAFT B will illustrate the system of transformation from the ruling principle as governing 
proportion to the one of measurement as by measures taken to apply, and the transform- 
ing by them into a systematic whole as a result, either in drafting' or in use of pattern. 
P'irst establish point U at front of arm scye, then from U take a line under the arm and 
over the blade to center of back, marking on the top of it on the blade at back of arm scye and 
at back center for scye depth and point to apply the measure. 

To take the measur(^ : First, taken i'rom top of back (less tlie amount for collar stand), 
the height of collar stand must be governed by the form and style of dressing the neck and 
width of collar fold. This measure extends from top of line B to line F (scye depth). Second, 
measure from line B to natural waist line O. Third, measure from line B to lull distance of 
waist style, line G. Fourth, measure from line B the full distance of draft to line H. Fifth 
measure from center of back to back-sleeve notch, .Sixth, blade measure irom LI to center of 
back. .Seventh, measure from I' the distance of sleeve forearm. Eighth, from U to line BO 
button stand, one-half chest. Ninth, from U to CO, adding to it the distance of back-neck 
width from line A to C for the full strap measure. Tenth, over shoulder from U to depth 
of scye establish a center of back. PLleventh, over end shoulder from U to mark on blade at 
back-arm scye. Twelfth, the full breast. Thirteenth, at the natural or hollow point of waist, 
Fourteenth, the hip at largest part. To apply measures: if taken over the vest, all seams to be 
used recjuire their amount to be added to the measures taken : it over the coat, their allow- 
ance will be made by the extra amount ot difference in the two measures ; it for overcoat 
measures taken over the vest, one-half inch and seams should be added to depth of scye ; to 
front and back shoulders, to blade, to breast, and to front jioint CO. If taken over the coat 
the seams added to measures will govern. In the use of patterns, take one two sizes larger if 
the measure is taken over vest. If over coat, take the size measure calls for and add to it all 
seams. In applying measures for any changes that form or affect measures, observe those that 
have previously been given and those that will be hereafter systematized in diagrams or explana- 
tions. The only difference in taking or applying measures in a body frock and sack is omitting 
the full distance of waist style in the sack that is used in the body frock. This illustration and 
the one of how to apply and draft by measure will suffice tor all in their different methods of 
reaching the one result, either by pro])ortion measure or the use of one's own or other patterns. 
Point U can be established either by scpiare, stick, fingers, or in any way to form a start- 
ing point to take and apply measures therefrom. It makes no difference how the base is found 
for starting, but it does make a great difference whether the base is rightly located, and a small 
utlay for an appliance that will stay in |)lace and allow the taking of all measures at and from 
the located point will well repay the expense. If there is any necessity for taking measures 
other than as a guide and assistance, with good proportion and good judgment, it is surely 
essential that they should be as accurately taken as possible, and always from the one point, as 
they are olten misleading at the best. The close and even measure is the better one to take, as 
you can always determine by it what allowances to make, whereas in using the loose or slack 
measure; you cannot always recall how it was taken. 



o 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES. SYSTEMS AND METHODS 




Measure, Draft B. — To Take and Apply. 



IS DOOLITTLIC'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULKS, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



MEA SURE— RULE 3. 

TO draft by Measure, the same rule formation as Foundation Draft A will govern, with the 
following changes : The depth of scye measure with a seam added from line B on line A 
will establish line F; then from line F one fourth up will establish line E; the distance 
from line B to natural waist by measure will establish line O, and this line is determined by the 
hollow part where back curves in most above the point of hip bone ; the distance of measure 
from line B to full length of waist will establish line G; then the full distance of measure to line 
H. To establish width of back go out on line F to I the distance of measure taken, adding to 
it all seams to be used. To form back part of scye use all the governings on line J as in 
Foundation Draft A. Draft now the back as in Draft A. To establish front of scye, go out 
from line A on line F to U the distance of measure taken, with all seams added ; extend from U 
to V one-twenty-fourth ; then draft line W as in Draft A. Establish center line S at T by the 
half distance from I to I' and draw line S as in Draft A ; to establish front of draft go from line 
A on line V the distance of one-half the full breast measure taken, and from that one-half dis- 
tance extend out to Y on line X three inches and form button stand as in Draft A. The front 
shoulder-point CO is located by the back as to shape and form at lines A and B. Draw the line 
at CO above and below line B, as this line is to be used up and down to locate the required 
strap. Measure distance as taken, and the depth of neck gorge a one-sixth down will be gov- 
erned up or down by and from the point this measure establishes. To find that point take the 
distance of top of back from line A to D ; place that amount of distance at L', with it extending 
to and on the line at CO of a distance of the strap measure taken ; then from the point of that 
distance either down or up draw a line forward to X, the front line of draft, and that will torm 
a new line B from CO only to line X. For all other measures taken and to be applied see 
Draft B of illustrated measurements. In that I give all the essential ones, how taken and ap- 
plied. It can be used either in drafting by rule or in the system of pattern changing; any 
known measure can be added or applied to this system. Before applying shoulder measures I 
deem it well as a guide to draw a line for top of point shoulder from CO (as located by strap 
measure) to line E at line A, as it may assist in governing judgment better than measure taken 
to produce a good line for shoulder shape. The front shoulder width in measure-draft is gov- 
erned by the back and re([uires to be three-eighths-inch longer than the back on distances of 
top lines. The shapings of the front scye and all shapes to be the same as in Draft A, using the 
same numbers and proportions not given in this Draft B. The measures for Body Frock are the 
same as the .Sack, only to add the full or st)le length of waist. 



20 DOOLITTI.H'S STRAIGHT Sri()ULD]':R RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



CUTAWAY FROCK— KIT LE DRAFT C. 

THIS tiral't C dilTers from the Under Sack Draft A only in separatino- of back, sidt- body and 
skirt, and tin- taking ot fulldength distance to G. To draft back, go in trom line A on 
line C> three-fourths inch to GO, and draw line Irom lines A and B at top ot back of neck 
to GO, and from GO square line to line H the full distance of skirt. From GO go in to HO 
one-eighth for width of back at the tack. From HO square line to line H. Then draw a line 
TO from center line S at T on breast line F to line A at line E. Go on that line TO from 
center line S at T one-fourth. Go trom center line S at T on line F one-tourth and one-twenty- 
fourth. Draw line from one-fourth and one twenty-lburth to HO. Then from I on line J go up 
one-si.\th. From one-sixth go forward three-eighths inch. From the one-si.xth up go up an 
opening of three-eighths inch. Go in on line (i from HO to lO one and one-half inch. Then 
shape the back from the three-eighths inch opening to the one-fourth on line TO. P""rom that 
one-fourth to the one-fourth and one-twenty-fourth on line I\ and from that one-fourth and 
one-twenty-fourth to HO. To form side body, shape from the three-eighths inch forward from 
line 1 to the one-fourth on line TO, from that one-fourth on line TO to the one-fourth and one- 
twenty-fuurth on line F, from that one-fourth and one twent)-lourth to K^, extending the shape 
below line (> a distance of the measurement of back and seam added of shape to [(X From 
|0 shape to center line S at line (i. Take out from center line .S at line three-fourths inch 
by three-eighths inch each side and shape separation from T to each the three-eighths inch, and 
to line .S at line (i: then for length of front forepart go down from line G on line BO one- 
sixth. bVom line S shape to the one-sixth at line BO, from G at line S go down one-half inch. 
Then shape to]) of skirt from JO to the one-half inch opening from line G, and from that to the 
one-sixth on line BO. To form back of skirt and spring, go back from the inside pleat line 
on line H one-twelfth. Draw line from that one-twelfth to JO. From line O go down one-third. 
From that one-third go l)ack one-twenty-fourth. Then shape from jO to the one-twenty-fourth 
and to the (Mie-twelfth at line H, making skirt a full seam longer. To draft by measure is 
simply to apply those that are taken, and by them establish lines and points they designate 
in place of proportion, showing by the rule of proportion how much the measures taken differ 
from it and the system of changing one form to be applied to another. The governing of all 
other points excepting those located by measures to be observed as in proportion in drafts 
A and B. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 21 




Cutaway Frock — Rule Draft C. 



DOOLITTLK'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



DOUBLE-BREASTED FKOCK-KULE. , 

THIS draft D differs only from the single-breasted draft C in the formation of the front 
observing the same rnles that govern in each the proportions and measures, as given in 
drafts A and B. To draft the lapel, go forward from line BO on line F one-quarter inch, 
then shape from point AO to the one-quarter inch, continuing the same to line G and to length 
of forepart that joins skirt at the one-sixth down from line G. Make width of lapel in pre- 
vailing style (allowing for two seams one-half inch), width usually from two and one-half to 
three inches. From AO go forward an opening one-half inch, and from that one-half inch 
opening shape to the one-quarter inch forward from line BO at line F. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 23 




Double-Breasted Frock — Rule. 



24 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



DKESS COAT— KULE. 

THE Dress Coat differs only from the single-breasted cutaway Frock Draft C or the double- 
breasted Frock Draft D by the formation of the front and skirt; all other points in 
drafting to be governed the same as in Drafts C and D. 

The forepart trom line BO on line d is reduced one inch. Then shape front the same 
as in I). B. P^rock to line F, and from that to the one inch reduced from line BO and to length 
ot waist. To torm lapel at waist, go forward one-half inch ; from that make width of lapel as 
to style and shape as in D. B. Frock, Draft E. 

To form skirt by coat draft, go down from the length of forepart at front one and 
one-half inch, or as to skirt rule ; then from skirt line established at center line S at hip, shape 
to the one and one-hall inch opening. Make the dei)th of skirt front two inches or as to style 
and size of draft; then place square on line \i of skirt at the one-third, ami by this line square and 
line forward a distance of one-half the breast measure ; then from the back of skirt line H go 
forward one-third. F"rom the one-third draw a line to and by the one-half at L. Then from 
the top line of skirt make the distance to L three inches, or as style and form require, and from 
that point line to front depth of skirt established. The dress skirt, for the reason of the one 
and one-half inch opening or drop from forepart at the front, will require that amount added to 
the back of skirt on line H. The one and one-half inch opening more or less is for the purpose 
of drawing in the edge of skirt and conforminu it close to the thigh, avoiding fullness at 
point L. 

The reason of the separation of the body and skirt at waist line of one and one-half 
inch in closing up, it will take that amount from the spring at bottom; thus it will require 
that amount added to it and the same amount taken from the front at one-third. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 25 




Dress Coat — Rule. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



RAGLAN— RULE. 

THE Raglan is produced from the same rule as Coat Draft A, with the following changes: 
In producing this or any dralt other than the regular standard ones, 1 advise first the for- 
mation of a regular draft (of whatever denomination may be required), as by so doing you 
can better determine the changes and variations in shaping to please the eye, as in this garment 
the lines have much to do with its effect. It may be well to mention here that the above can be 
applied in all productions with very good results. This draft differs from the standard in that 
the shoulder lines are estabHshed as wanted, and the sleeve part of shoulder made to conform 
to their shape. To make the changes from the regular standard draft A for the back top shoul- 
der line, draw a line from center line S at line B to line F at line A. Go on this line from center 
line .S (at line B) one-fourth. Then shape from D to the one-fourth to line E and to back scye 
notch. To form front shoulder top line, draw a line from center line S at line B to line F at line 
BO. Go on this line from center line .S (at line B) one-fourth. Then shape front shoulder 
from CO to that one-fourth, and to the one-sixth on line W. The remainder of front and back 
of scye formation as standard (IDraft A). The above points given have been well tested and 
found good in their governings ; while any one established point will not contorm to all eye criti- 
cism, and styles changing, they allow for any change from them, and to do so have the sleeve top 
part of that amount to conform with any changes that may be required either for fullness, height 
of shoulder or shaping. To draft the sleeve: Produce the same draft as in standard sleeve rule 
draft, then s(|uare up from line B at center line D (in sleeve rule) a line the distance ot one third, 
from that one-third go forward one-twelfth, then go in on triangle line from the tork of lines B 
and C one-thirty-second, and from the one-twelfth down on line C shape to the one-thirty-second 
and to the one-twelfth out at the point of lop sleeve. Go in on triangle line from the fork of 
lines A and B one-si.\teenth, and from the notch at forearm of sleeve shape to the one-sixteenth 
on triangle line and to the point at top of a one-twelfth out from center line D. This will form 
the sleeve top. In forming sleeve top for Raglan it will be of great assistance in the formation 
of shoulder in the make-up to place a thread mark in the sleeve head, which should be the same 
shape as in the standard. For extra drapery or spring, go from line A at line H one inch : as 
to H, the full distance, and that on a basis of a thirty-eight inch distance of a draft; line from 
the one inch out from line A to the top of line A at line B. If more length is required, this line, 
if extended by its angle from the thirty-eight-inch distance, will govern for any length required. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



27 




Raglan — Rule. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



INVEKNESS-RULE. 

IN this draft, like that of the Raglan, there is no better way than to make the changes by 
and from the regular standard coat draft A, as, in having that before you, you can best 
observe and govern a draft of changes ; the changes to be observed as follows : To form 
the back, come back from K one-sixteenth, then from D shape the top back shoulder to the 
one sixteenth, to line E, to M, and from M a straight line the distance to line H for separation 
of back and forepart. Go down on the separation line from line F one-fourth to notch one (for 
extra scye depth). From the separation line come back on line H for the spring one-sixth, and 
from the one-sixth line to notch one. 

To form front shoulder and the scye, reduce shoulder width from DO one-sixteenth, then 
from the one-sixteenth shape scye to the one-sixth on line W to V, and to the one-fourth on 
separation line notch one. 

To form the cajje : Square back from line A at breast line F an extended line the distance 
of one-fourth, draw line FO from center line S at line B to the one-fourth, extending one-sixth, 
or to any distance required for cape length or depth. Go on line FO from center line S at line 
B one-eighth, then from the one-eighth on line FO shape to line F at line A and to full distance 
of cape length. To form circle of cape at l)Ottom, take the distance on line F( ) from the one- 
eighth to full length, and make that on the front from Z down on line X equal it. Then go out 
on line X to GO one-twelfth, and line from GO to Z for the front. -Shape now the bottom from 
the full distance of the back to R to GO (R being located as in standard Draft A), the notches 
one and two on line formed by line FO as from the one-eighth to the full length equals in join- 
ing in going to place those of one and two on separation line ot back and front. 

To produce cape: Place another [japer under the draft of the required size and take an 
impression from it, tracing the following line: From the one-eighth on line FO to lull distance 
of back depth as shaped : from the one-eighth on line FO to FO, from EO to the one-sixth on 
line W, then trace the front shoulder and neck gorge as shaped, then from the one-sixteenth on the 
top front shoulder to the one-sixth on line W. Then the curved line to the full distance at the 
one-sixth on line I-'O io R, to GO, and from CA) to Z. Now take out the paper and cut out by 
the impression marks, notching as above mentioned. The drapery and spring is the same as in 
the Raglan draft. The front of drafts in Coat and Cape are regulated by the styles that govern. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 




Inverness — Rule. 



DOOLITTLK'S STRAIGPIT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



SHOULDER t'APE-KULE. 

CONSTRUCT line A and square out line B by and from it ; go down from line B on line A 
one-tourth to line C ; go down from line C on line A to shoulder line E one-iourth: from 
line E go down to shoulder line F one-fourth, go out from line A on line C one-eighth 
and one-half inch ; from that go u|j one-twenty-fourth to L), then square out lines C, E and F 
the full distance of long arm of square ; go out from line A on shoulder line E one-half from 
the one-half square up line Ui to H on line B; go up on line G from line E one-eighth to I; 
from 1 draw line | to D ; go from I one-twelfth on line | ; from the one-twelfth go up one-thirty- 
second from line J ; then shape from D to the one-thirty-second and to I ; go up on line G from 
I one-twelfth, from one-twelfth come back one-thirty-second; then shape from I to the one-thirty- 
second and to H on line B. This forms the back and front shoulder lines as going together. 
Go out two-thirds from line A on line F, from the two-thirds go one-twenty-fourth to K, then 
place long arm of s(iuare with the front edge at K and I, and form line L from line B, through 
and past them the distance of long arm of square : place square on line L with point of short 
arm at line E and go forward one-half on line M ; extend three inches from the one-half to N, 
and one and one-fourth inch from N to O, then go out from line A on line B two-thirds to P, 
from P one--sixth, from one-sixth to AO one-twenty-fourth; from P go down one-sixteenth; then 
shape from H to one-sixteenth down from P and to AO, from AO line BO to N, and extend the 
distance required for button line. From and by this line BO square up from AO the distance 
of one and one-fourth inch to Z ; then from Z draw line X to O and to full ciistance of front 
edge of cape draft. To form bottom shape sweep from H on line B by taking the distance from 
H to full depth distance in back, and sweep from that forward to line X at front edge of draft; 
after taking this sweep add to the depth of back one-sixth, and from that one-sixth re-shape to 
line E. To lake and apply measures: The shoulder measure is taken to, and applied on, line 
E. Take measure around the body at a straight line around the breast and back or the arm 
below end of shoulder bone at fullest place on arm. This will give the required number of 
square scale divisions to be used. If taken over vest, use one of two sizes larger. If over the 
coat, use as to the measure. To apply measure in proof, go from line A on line E to line L, 
and from line L on line M to a distance of one-half the full shoidder measure taken, and from 
that one-half amount extend three inches to N, and from N add amount of button stand, if any 
is required. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



31 




~y^ 7^ 

Shoulder Cape — Rule. 



l/neA. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



SKIRTS— RULES : D. B. FROCK, DRESS, CUTAWAY. 

DOUBLH-BREASTED Frock Draft — To draft this skirt separate from the coat, estabhsh 
Hues A and B. From line A on Hne B go in one-eighth to C. Draw a line E from C 

to the lull distance of skirt length to line 1); then go down tVom line 1! on line E one- 
third less two inches. TVom the one-third come back from line I^ one twenty-fourth. Then 
shape the back skirt from C to one-twenty-fourth and to full distance to line D. Take the 
amount of distances of the side body, front and lapel, and make the width of top skirt to F 
equal to it. From V go down on line X to ( J one-si.xth ; go forward from C on line 15 one- 
fourth and one-twenty-fourth, and shape from the one-fourth and one-twenty-fourth the top of 
skirt to Ci. (io down from line D on line X one-si.xth or take length of back skirt and make 
front of same distance. The Dress skirt draft formation is the same as D. B. Frock with 
exception of the following changes : From G to H an opening of the one-sixteenth, from H to 
I width of front skirt one-twelfth. Tlien place scpiare on line E at the one-third and by this line 
from one-third, scjuare line forward a distance of one-lialf to [ and from J line to I on front line 
X. The opening of one-sixteenth from (i to H is to make skirt at J conform more closely to 
the thigh at that point, avoiding fullness, and for the reason of closing that opening of G and H 
it will recjuire that distance to be added to the spring from line A on line D. 

The Cutaway .Skirt Draft differs only from the Double-Breasted Frock in the formation 
of shape from G. The remarks for spring on the Dress Coat Draft will apply as well on all 
skirts that cause of form requiring the taking any amount from G should apply, as in dress 
draft illustration, except in the stooping form ; then it may require it to take from the amount 
of spring. 



D(X")LITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 3; 



DBFfockG 
Dress H V"^ [ 



Dress I --" ' 




Skirts — Rules : D. R. Frock, Dress, C 



L'JAWAV. 



34 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



VEST REDUCED FROM RULE 1, DRAFT A. 

THM construction of this vest draft is the same as the coat Foundation Draft A, with the 
exception of the changes in reduction and points left out not required, while all can be 
used if desired. 

First draw lines A and B, establish points C. D and CO; lines E, F, G and O; point I 
and T, line J, point K. Draw line from K to D, establish center line S and points U and V, 
line W, lines I>0 and X; take half the amount of coat-button stand for vest. The measure 
applied will govern opening and length of vest front. Use the same button-line BO in vest as 
in coat draft. The half of coat-button stand will be the front-edee line of vest. To reduce sro 
forward on line F from center line S at point T one-twenty-fourth, from one-twenty-fourth square 
and line down irom line F to and below line G a distance of one-twelfth. For proportion, go 
down from line G on front edge of vest one-fourth or as measure taken ; and from that dis- 
tance (one-fourth or measure) line back to the one-twelfth below line G. From line F at point 
T go down on center line S three-eighths inch, at O take from center line S for shape one-half 
inch and from forepart line opposite O one-half inch ; go down from one-twelfth down from line 
G three-eighths inch. .Shape the two side separations of front ami back from line F to limit of 
draft ; draw line from the distance of one-twelfth and three-eighths inch below line G back to 
line A, go in from line A on line G three-fourths inch and shape back from line F" to full distance 
of back length. To reduce shoulders, go in from points of the end shoulder-line widths one- 
twelfth and shape for arm scye; the back from the one-twelfth to I and to the three-eighths inch 
down from line F; the front from the one-twelfth to line F at U, advancing three-fourths inch 
more than coat from line VV. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES. SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



35 




5b 






Draft A, 




L ine f. 



Line G. 






cot 




/|2 



Vest Reduced From Rule i, Draft A. 



36 DOOLITTLl-yS STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTl'lMS AND METHODS 



VEST-TO TAKE FRO^I THE COAT DRAFT. 

A VEST draft taken from coat drait is the most accurate and simple method of pro- 
ducinq- a vest draft. To do so, before cutting out the one ot coat, place under 
the draft for coat another piece of paper to extend under a distance for length 
required for vest, then tracing by heavy marking or tracing-wheel the lines ot back and 
front, top shoulders, arm scye, breast, waist, button-stand and the center line ; then take out the 
under impression and make collar opening and full distance ot tront as measures dictate. At 
center, line the required distance below waist line (i and all other changes as in vest draft given. 
In this system of working out a vest problem it gives the exact points and all changes in shaping 
to conform to the form. Do not go below the breast line in forming arm scye, as the vest 
shoulder draft, being the same as coat, will permit it to drop at armpit the distance required 
in the difference of vest over skirt that the coat will take over vest with make up. In this 
problem, if coat is right the vest will be, and if any changes are made in coat you will know 
what are required for vest as well by this system, which will make a saving of time. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SH0ULDP:R RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 17 




Vest — To Take From Coat Draft. 



38 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



VEST— KULE DRAFT— PKOPOKTION OR MEASURE. 

IN giving- this tlralt of proportion it is to show the principles on whicli this rule is formed, so 
that you can from it work intelligently any problematic changes with some degree of accu- 
racy, as proving by the different methods and systems the producing of one and same 
results as a fact. To form this draft, establish all points and lines the same as those used in 
vest drafts A and B, with the following exceptions : In going out from line A on breast line F, 
go a distance of one-third tor width of back for point I, line [ and point K. Fmm line I 
for center line S go forward one-sixth. For front of arm scye, point V and line W, go forward 
the same as in draft A and H, then go out from line A on breast line F the half of full breast 
measure; from that distance of a half go forward two inches; from the two-inch, five-eighths 
inch ; the two inches out from the half breast distance will be the button stand line BO, and 
the five-eighths inch the tront-edge line oi draft. Take out the one-twenty-fourth reduction 
from center of draft, same as draft A and B. Shape the back for arm scye from K as draft A 
and B, making the front shoulder at top width equal in distance to that of back. The remainder 
of this draft the same as in draft A and B. 

In changing the above to measure draft, locate lines, points and shapes the same as in 
coat measurement drafts of changes so far as required to produce vest draft, leaving out 
unnecessary workings of coat draft not used in the vest draft. Take out reduction at center 
of one-twenty-fourth, the same as in A and B; measures taken and applied will govern width 
of back to line [, and that the shoulders, blade, scye and all measures govern as in draft A. 
The width of a vest shoulder is mostly governed by one's judgment as to preference. I favor 
the wide, as it helps support the coat. The opening at front and length is governed by meas- 
urements taken. The double-breasted drafts are best explained by diagram illustrations in the 
branch of system illustration. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



39 




Vest — Rule Draft — Proportion ok Measure. 



40 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



VEST DIAGRAM-TO TAKE AND APPLY MEASURES. 

FIRST, iVoiu center of back of neck to top of front opening; second, to full length distance 
of front; third, to the side at point of hip-bone. The above are all to be taken irom the 
back of neck. Fourth, straight around and over the breast at largest point; filth, around 
the waist, allowing for space to button. To apply the above : First take the distance of back 
width at top from center to D, carrying that distance to CO, to front top opening to full length 
distance, allowing for all seams required in making up. The breast and waist measures are 
established by rules and systems given. 

It is well in taking waist measure for the vest (when no trousers measure is taken) to 
take one untler the vest as well as over, as there will be a difference of from one and one-halt 
to two inches, which will be required as the amount to go over the trousers waist, and is always 
regulated by the weight of the material. A correct measure, if taken in corresponding places, 
will work in proof ot the above. 

The Double-Breasted vest is the same measure in the opening as that ot the single, 
crossing at the same point of measure. Al! other distances are governed the same as in the 
Double-Breasted Coat, as to any width of spread wished. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



41 




Vest Diagram — Tu Take and Apply Measures. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



T 



THE DIVISION SCALES. 

HE scales given will be tound useful in many ways, other than as ior testing, and can be 
used tor drafting minute drafts and as well used in practicing the different rules when 
away from the conveniences of large drafting tables and other requisites for regular-size 



draftintr. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDKR RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 43 



/VO/. 


1 NCHE5 


^/3 


h 


3 


4 


8 16 32 
3 12 2+ 


4 

1 1 


3 
1 1 


2 

1 1 


1 1 








/KPJ. 






^/3 


/2 


> 


6 24 
12 

L 16 


4 
1 1 


3 
II 


2 

1 1 


1 
1 1 








■ 8 32 




Scales. 



REMARKS 



Jf* t^r* tif' t£r* 



REMARKS— CAUSE AND EFFECTS. 

THERE is probably no one branch of industry that has more perplexing and annoying 
problems to solve and that requires more patience and perseverance than the tailoring 
business in its several branches. Complications are arising all the time that require the 
best combination of many in one to solve, and for this reason it will not harm one to have many 
works treating on garment cutting, and there is no other industry that is confined to one or two, 
and a number cannot hold all there is to be known in the tailoring business ; there is no other 
branch of industry using and adhering to the old rules, systems, or even theories of the past ; 
all are seeking the most advanced ideas to keep abreast with competition and to keep in touch 
with the young by action, if not in years. It is for the lack of the above, in many cases, that 
the young influence of the present day is required in a declining business. 

The most essential point in garment producing is the front shoulder point; next the 
hanging of a garment at top shoulder bone and also the blades. The first is the most important 
for the reason that it governs more rulings than any other one point, and unless it is properly 
located it will be impossible to make a clean and perfect shoulder. 

The strap, spring or drapery and blade. If the strap distance of front shoulder at CO 
appears too long or full, do not take in the amount for correction until you first find the cause. 
First, see if armpit is too high or low, and if too high, leave it as it is and open shoulder seam 
at top shoulder bone and let it drop and the front point will adhere closely to the neck at CO. 
If the armpit is too low, then take fullness in, re-iorming neck gorge to that amount. The 
collar will, if too tight, often cause the same fullness, and as well influence the spring ot a 
garment. 

It is well to remark here, as being very important, that in no branch ot this work is a 
short collar in any way admissible, and is one of the most harmful of all mechanisms that can be 
made. The short and tight collar is for the crooked shoulder only, that is stretched to a place 
that it will not stay, and the effect of trying to hold up to place makes a more biased front edge 
and side seam of forepart requiring more spring, while with the rules and system given in this 
book, will, without a collar, stand up to place intended, showing that there is nothing for the 
collar to assist in doing, simply to be placed on the stand line, plain and easy ; will even allow 
of one-quarter inch fullness as better than one-quarter inch short or tight on. A shoulder not 
pinned down too tight on any garment gives a more graceful effect, and consequently much care 
should be taken to see that it has ease on the top shoulder where the coat hangs from, as no 
coat can be well balanced without it. All who have had experience know that with all care taken 
in measurements the blade will work a fullness; but this is not objectionable, as a certain amount 
is required for allowing a forward movement of the arm, but a baggy appearance is objection- 
able and may arise from different causes. If caused by a too shallow sleeve-head allowing the 
outside or back of sleeve seam to drae down the shoulder to form fullness, correct the sleeve ; 
if the blade, it is best to correct the blade by pinching-in the amount at blade seams and shaping 
to a distance required to take it out, rather than to cramp top shoulder by lifting it up. For the 
cause of this fullness and the taking out of blade each side a half-inch or more, a halt-inch each 
side would, if corrected on the pattern to be retained, make it of one size less than what the 
breast measure taken calls for, showing the uncertainty of being governed by measures only, as 
good judgment is as well required. Different fabrics require different working, and, as well, dif- 
ferent forms. All journeymen do not work as well on one garment as on another, or on one tabric 

47 



48 DOUI.lTTLl'.'S STRAKilll- SI loL'l .Dl'K KlM.l'.S, SN'STEMS AND MI-.TllODS 



as well as on another, and lor this reason it is as well, when so situated, it one can, as much as 
possible, place work in the hands of tliose who \vori< separately the best. 

I he widtli ot back as across Ironi back notch for sleeve has much to do in a _L,rood ^^ar- 
ment ; it allows front of arm scytt to remain in plac(; with ease (the point CO as wc;ll) and you 
can produce- a better and more efiective blade with it, while a narrow one will not allow any 
sleeve to hany well or any Ireedom of arm movement. This may be the case where a draft for 
a sleeve to arm scye would be effective by placini,; in it that part of the back taken from it ; a 
too witle back is of small expense to bushel ; a too narrow one is of lar^e expense ; in many 
cases, too, even with a new back and outlets, the effect cannot b(! correctcxl without a new collar, 
and a chanL;*- at C"0 as a result. A small arm s()c and wide back will make the most comfort- 
able as well a better effect in a garment. 

In making- any changes lor correction in a garment it is always best to observe first as to 
their inlluence and elfect at other than their individual points, as often there arc; different correc- 
tions and that will benefit better the correction, ami, as well, be less liable to displace others, a.s 
in correction of a side seam of blade In a body frock loi- loo much hillness, it may \)r_ caused by 
front shoulder point CO, as too short of stra]), liy loo long depth of scye, by the too tight or too 
short collar, as all or any one of the above would hav<; an inlluence at full length of waist at 
CO to cause it, and the study of each and every one should be to thoroughly investigate and 
Imd out the most prominent one and remedy that ; but lii-st of all try by pinching-up of the 
uniler arm Ion-part and side- body seam at c(-nl(-r line .S, to see if that will not make the correc- 
tion without tlisturbing any of the other points, and if so, it will be much better than to take 
from side body at blade the amount as making too narrow for a well-definc^d artistic line. Often 
a little clearing of front scye at line W will let it go to place. 

As the mechanism has largely to do with good results, tlu- nearer points as connecting 
are dralted to place, and shaping to shape, it would be reasonal>le to expect the better results 
from it. The uncertainty of stretching and shrinking often misplaces its(-lf, and if not held to 
the purpose for which it was intended, the rc^sult would be better without it. As the stretching 
of front scye at point of front shoulder bone for ease, letting the amount of it fall over the back 
with a Hal and light jilace, ellecting just the opposiu- of inleniions and making worse by it, as it 
takes from the fabric's elasticil), the purpose as inlcnded for ease at that point is harmed unless 
held anil worked forward to the [)lace int(-nded. It would be better without the stretching if 
poorly manipulated, as a shoulder, being the most sightly and attractive ])art of the garment, 
recpiires much can- and study in producing. A good clean efTective shoulih-r will oft(-n pass 
a garment with other defects. 

The overcoat only differs from the under coat in all the separate styles in the advance- 
UKMit of front, and that, in all cases, is an open (piesiion, governed by effect as required, and 
of the dillerciil fabrics in use. As a rule, for a singh-direasled, it will require from two and 
one-(|uart(-r to two and on(--half inclu-s ad\ance fnjui button-stand line BO, established in the 
under garment, and for the double breast, from four to four and one-half inches from BO. 
The surtout or any waist froik is only an enlargement of the under coat and requires a wider 
lapel. 

In uK-asure drafting all of the same governings are to be observed as in Drafts A 
ami B, with tlu- exception of those- that nn-asures taken govern to locate. The same will 
ajjply throughout this work aiul entire system in (-ach and every tlraft in all their separate 
l)ranches. There is no better way to cU;termine the long neck form than by the use of propor- 
tion, and as vv(;ll the short, though bt-lter tlu- long. The location of the long neck form re- 
(|uirenu-nts as to locating tlu- same b\' shouldc-r uu-asures, taken over the round form, and 
so applied on a flat draft on pajxM-, is classed as theory. I'hat is not used by thi: advanced 
cutter of to-day for the reason that it has no evitlence of proof whatever, but is merely an 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDKR RULES, SYSTEMS AND MiailUDS 49 



excuse for errors, and theoretically is found to be wrong. Measures, if well taken and as 
well applied, govern all changes better than the long neck form, and this form is probably 
the most difficult, if not the worst, a cutter has to contend with, as the sloping shoulder follows 
the long neck ; thus the first and third as given come in to assist one in solving a problem. 
To produce by all the three has given satisfactory results for a try-on, and more sure without 
it than any one given rule. The impression formed of the requirements of sleeve head for a 
high or low shoulder and the drafting separately for each of the same is in the class of theory 
and is so applied. If any require a change in a good sleeve head draft or a set pattern from 
it, it is the slouching form, who, for the cause of sinking into his armpit for self-support, will 
naturally drag down a sleeve head; but even for that reason it does not recpiire a change of 
the head and only a sinking of the under arm part. This mentioned form is the only one I 
deem right to sink below the breast-constructed line F in any garment, and then attention first 
should be given to front location point CO for a remedy, as by letting that have more length 
it will let fall the armpit scye and avoid tightness of scye. The high and low shoulder are of 
one depth so far as the distance from top of shoulder to the bottom of armpit. The mere 
carrying of shoulder either high or low will not affect the sleeve; the distance in each being the 
same, the measures taken of back arm scye depth, strap and over shoulder will determine 
for each. As the shoulders of each may measure the same in the two forms, the depth of scye 
in back ami the strap measure in front will differ from that of being the same in both shoul- 
ders. If the sloping shoulder is to be made up to the appearance of the high one, the sinking 
of under part of sleeve will allow of the carrying up of the sleeve with better result than 
the change of sleeve head. 



SYSTEM 

OF 

PATTERN ILLUSTRATING COATS 



^^ t2^ w* ei5^ 



52 DOOLITTLK'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



LONG NECK FORBI. 

THE long^ neck form often rt-quires more advancement in Iront trom Z; in any case go forward 
a distance sufficient to form a good space to show from collar notch AO to the crease roll 
in order not to bring the collar step too high on neck, showing a short collar and a too 
narrow space. The long or short neck will take the same width of shoulder in most all cases. 
The difference of form is shown that if the long neck increases at CO it decreases at end of 
shoulder. The short decreases at CO and increases at end of shoulder. The short neck form 
is often actually wider than the long. The formation of collar for the different formations of neck 
forms is governed greatly by the prevailing style, as a narrow fold cannot take the high stand 
that the long neck requires. The amount reduced from stand for reason of narrow collar told 
must be placed in addition to top of back of neck and advanced the same at CO. The reverse 
will apply to the short. The straightening of the neck gorge shape from CO to AO will answer 
in all cases for the falling away from the neck at that space with the exception of cases where a 
long neck is of a stooping form, but it will require the combination of the stooping to work with 
it. The neck gorge being formed first (a standard collar is well to use), observing in all cases 
the changing of it to conform to that of the neck. As the usual following ot the long neck is 
that of the small (unless full-chested), it will require no change at AO and Z. If a garment 
when finished is too low in the neck, the correction is made by raising all around. This should 
be conclusive proof of the above changes. 

The illustrative diagram I shows first how to produce tor the long neck ; second, the col- 
lar; third, the lapel from AO to Z; fourth, the straightening of gorge from CO to AO, and 
collar as changed from standard. It is as well to use one standard collar for all, and make the 
necessary changes as to neck requirements, rather than to produce one for each and every draft. 
The dressing of the neck in most all cases and the width ot style tor collar fold regulates the 
amount of stand. It is best shown in taking measure for depth of scye in back to call first that 
amount (as three-fourths, one, or one-and-a-quarter inch) before calling depth of scye measure, 
and that should be from whatever point the stand is to be located. If the style for narrow fold 
(the neck being long and of high dress), that amount would go on collar stand if wide fold, and 
must be added at top of back, and as well forward from CO to AO. As the long neck inclines 
up it retjuires that same incline in draft as taking more even than the strap measure taken. 
Usually it is taken lower down than when applied to a draft, and if too short to permit of going 
up to place naturally will seek the level and fall from neck, e.vtending over on shoulder and 
losing the effect intended. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 53 




Long Neck Form. 



54 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



SHORT NECK FORM. 

THE short neck is in all practical workings the opposite of the long. While the sloping- 
shoulder will follow in the case of the long, the opposite will be found in the short or high, 
and in each measures will determine, as will requirements of AO and Z to be located. 
The cutting down of a too high collar after the garment is finished, if too high, ought to 
demonstrate the above illustration in practice and make the changes before, and in no case are 
they so strongly illustrated as by proportion ruling. As to further illustration : If a thirty-six 
breast calls for nine inch depth of scye back, in proportion and measures call for eight and one- 
halt inches, it requires one-halt inch down in back and one-half inch back from CO, otherwise 
by leaving CO standing it would carry the back that much further forward, and making still 
shorter as to points going to place in this work ; the long neck would be just the opposite. The 
short neck usually tbllows the large, and in most cases will not require a change at AO and Z. 

The illustrated diagram, first, showing the reduction ; second, with collar ; third, it change 
from AO to Z required, and the change from standard collar. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 55 



Z AO. 





Z.AO. 




I Tliira [Did.B. 





Short Neck Form. 



56 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



NECK GORGE. 

THIS is governed by strap measure as to re-formation of either; the long and short are used 
and apphed in all cases to locate CO either up or down, and from it will establish the 
depth of gorge. 

The first represents the long strap measure, and the second represents the short strap 
measure. 

This work never requires any cuts in the neck gorge, nor will it allow of a tight collar ; 
it will allow of a collar one-fourth inch long and easy on rather than one-fourth inch short or 
tio-ht. The effect of a cut is poor in two ways: first, if only a cut widiout anything out, reduces 
neck gorge from CO to AO one-half inch out of place ; second, the throwing of more fullness to 
crease-roll where less is required. It will be found in the working of the neck gorge, as given 
in this work, that without a collar it will adhere close to the neck and the front stand to place 
without the aid of a collar, showing conclusively that if in any way with collar on it is wrong, 
either it is the collar's fault or the result of having too short a front strap distance. First try 
the collar, and if no relief by that, then the strap; often it will be found both, and either or both 
will throw fullness on blade for cause of indling in at hip and tightening from back of neck at 
lines A and B to hip. 



DCXILITTLK'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULKS. SYSTEMS y\ND METHODS 



57 







N 







>1 


^ 


>;■ 


^<i 


(fl 




>». 


Co 




o1 




^ 




t 


, 




Neck Gorge. 



58 DOOLir ILL'S STRAKHIT SllOULDKR RULKS, SYSTEMS AND MKTHOUS 



ERECT FORM. 

THE erect form will draw more distance from top of neck at back (lines A and B) to R at 
larger point of hip, requiring more space from line A to D and CO; while the length ol 
strap measure will show this, it will not show the best place to place it. The best rule to 
follow in all such cases is that of taking cloth trom where it is not wanted and place where it is ; 
this will apply in all cases. The most natural way is to go from line A the distance required, and 
this (as in the stooping) is best determined by good judgment, and as a basis ior starting three- 
eighths inch is a good average. 

The over-erect form will require advancement in front of AO, Z, and line X, as will a 
shorter depth of back from line B to F. This can be worked in, either by advancing CO to take 
up the back or by letting CO, AO and Z remain, and sink back only down from line B to back 
center as formed by change from line A (in the second back). The whole back (for reason of no 
seam) must be applied as changes in back first and back second are illustrated. The blade illus- 
tration goes with the whole back (first). The end shoulder goes with the advance ol CO. 



DOOLITTLirS STRAIGHT SIIOULDKR RULES, SYSTI-:MS AND MKTIIODS 59 




Erect Form. 



6o DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



STOOPING FORM. 

THE stooping form is the opposite of the erect only of more extreme cases, and, Hke the 
erect, must be governed by good judgment. The three-eighths inch as a rule base for 
the average forms will suffice. The placement of the fabric as wanted is very strongly 
illustrated in this form. The second shows that, by holding the pattern first at line A to line F 
and pitching in from line A at to[) three-eighths inch, it will throw out at line H at a distance of 
thirty inches, three-fourths inch. The amount that throws out goes in from line A and 
re-forms back. Take the same amount from back line of forepart, and re-form from edge by it. 
To hold this change effect, fu'st mark back shoulder at top at K and to I. The shaping 
of the back as the second, will force or allow CO to drop down and forward to place. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



6i 




Stooping Form. 



62 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



CORPULENT FORM— SACK. 

THIS form is usually of the erect, though found in the stooping; in either case the advance- 
ment for it is the same on line O from line X at front. In the first, for the amount of 
increase for a good shape line for a low roll, advance line F to Y and take the same amount 
from blade. For a short roll it does not matter; it can run to the breast line at Y, and even 
extend out from Z, if desired. The second is for the more erect form, and the above long, 
or short, roll, will follow in the same way. 

In the adding to, or reducing from, top shoulder seams by that of proportion, either by 
drafting'-, by measure, or by alterations when trying on, care should be observed not to change 
all from the one, but an equal amount from each one will produce the more artistic line of seam. 
The higher the back seam can be carried up on to the shoulder in good proportion with the 
front, the higher will be the shoulder effect from back view, as a sloping back shoulder seam 
with any amount of make up will not give it the straight, square look ; this should convince one 
of the importance of good artistic placement of seam lines, showing the influence of them on 
the eye as it follows them, in defining even a good impression as bad in efiect. The mention of 
shoulder seams can be observed in all garments, and especially in those of the more dressy 
effects, and more on occasions when the back as well as the front are the center of surrounding 
criticisms that will not allow of the backing out for concealment. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULUKR RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 63 




F/r3f 

5ecor?c/ 



Corpulent Form — Sack. 



64 DOULITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



CORPULENT FOKM-FROCK CUTAWAY. 



A 



LL explanation given in the saclc coat will apply in every way to this, the first and second 



showino- it as beini/ the same. 



DOOLITTLK'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 65 




Corpulent Form — Frock Cl-tawav. 



66 DOOLITTL?:'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



T 



CORPULENT FORM— D. B. FROOK. 

HIS double-breasted frock shows how produced from frock cutaway. The changes for 
corpulency are observed the same as those previously given. The second showing 
chanoe from A(^, if to button with three or lower roll than four. 



D0(3LITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 67 




Corpulent Form — Double Breasted Frock. 



68 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDKR RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



CORPULENT FORM— DRESS COAT. 

THE same changes govern in this coat for corpulent forms as in all the others, merely 
extending to whatever size rec|uired. This and all are based on three sizes larger waist 
than l)reast. In the dress coat, the back is often as prominent as the front, and for that 
reason as much attention must be given to it. A fine front and a baggy back from blade to 
waist is as bad as a poor front effect. ( )ften in this garment the strap shortness and shortness 
of collar will cause all the tightening and shortening of the required distance from neck at back 
line A, front shoulder CO, and to back length at waist. As this garment requires a wide back 
across the shoulders and easy blade for frequent using of arms extended, it is well, in the cor- 
rection, to give more length of strap distance. If not remedied by this, let out the side body 
at bottom of waist, and let the fullness fall to place on the blade in a graceful form. The 
shoulders being the most sightly, both front and back should have much care. Often there will 
be caused bad wrinkles, as drawing from CO to front of arm ; this can be remedied in most 
cases by the advancement of CO and that amount taken from end-point of front shoulder. This 
will as well shorten and take extra fullness from back as back drops down, by carrying it for- 
ward with the advancement of CO forward. The different forms of illustration must always be 
observed as combination in all cliange. The mention of back shortening and shifting of 
shoulder will as well apply in any garment as so affected. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 69 




Corpulent Form — Dress Coat. 



JO UOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



DOUBLE-BREASTED UNDER SACK. 

THE double-breasted under sack is only the extension of the under sack in the front, and that 
as to one's own opinion and as the fabric requires. A distance from line BO of three 
inches is a conservative amount. The first showino- collar at stand, the second showing 
a peaked lapel, also the throvviuij^ down of collar at stand. The collar represents the forming 
from standard of any collar for a short roll that will stand in place, and not draw down from 
crease established as a permanent roll. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 71 




Double-Breasted Under Sack. 



DOOLITTLl'I'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



T 



DOUBLE-BREASTED OVEK SACK. 

HLS illustrates a production from the under sack with front extension and the carrying down 
from line H to distance required. For this front a good rule is from three and a half to 
four inches extension from line BO of the single-breast button stand. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 73 




Double-Breasted Over Sack. 



74 DUOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



FLY FRONT OK CHESTERFIELD OVERCOAT. 

THIS coat is only an extension of front from line BO of the single breast and is governed by 
the prevailing style and the material. A good rule is from two and one-fourth to two and 
onedialf inches. It may be well to mention here that judgment must be used in all cases 
as to the fabric used, as some will waste in edge, some take up more than others in making up, 
and this will apply as well to all seams of those of like material. 

A single-breasted overcoat to button through will not require quite as much front, and 
from one and three-fourths to two inches will be sufficient. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 75 




Fly Front or Chesterfield Overcoat. 



76 DOOLITTLli'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



DRAPE KY— EFFECT. 

IN placino- the amount oi drapery in any g-arment, as to requirements it will be necessary to 
keep in mind the changes and effects previously given as to the different forms, and observe 
well their effects in applying draper)-, as the stooping form will recjuire all in front, while 
with the erect the opposite is reipiired. The first showing equal division of distribution, the 
second the erect, the third the stooping, the fourth any placement of side seams. 

Much of the effect of this garment, and, it may be said, the principle ruling of any extra 
drapery given, is governed by the hanging of the garment on the shoulder as to the result 
wished for. 

If a shoulder shows too full about the neck at CO, do not mark to take in that amount' 
until first seeing if the shoulder does not pin down too close and ride at top shoulder bone. If so, 
(without disturbing the collar or sleeve), open up the top shoulder seams from CO and D to the 
end shoulder at sleeve seam, and by letting the coat fall so that it will rest easily on the shoulder 
bone, it will often be found that the fullness at neck CO will drop close to place, and the amount 
ot ease over shoulder bone will give a much better hanging garment, as well as give more ease 
of scye. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS -jj 




Drapery — Effect. 



78 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



FKONT EDGE— TO TIGHTEN. 



THIS will often work well in cases of ordinary stout forms. Drop from M three-eighths 
inch, and re-shape armpit of scye. When brought back to M and L, it will throw back extra 
spring and take that much from front. The amount the extra spring requires taken from 
front part at side seam, and that amount placed in the front, and the lengthening of side seam 



the three-eighths inch taken from it at AL 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 79 




Front Edge — Effect. 



8o DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHUULUER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



BLADE SEAM— TO PLACE. 

THE purpose of this illustration is to explain that the blade at back scye seam can be placed 
at any space separating from the back that may be desired, either high or low. The tak- 
ing out of more or less at the three-eighths inch should be regulated as too large or too 
small blade form, as the more taken out the more fullness will be given the round of blade as 
well, and allow of closing up the scye in back to conform more closely to the arm that this form 
(the first) develops. 

The small or flat blade (the second) will not require as much opening at the three-eighths 
inch. The extending well forward of the top point of side body at the three-eighths inch will 
better form the back part of arm scye and not allow of as much extension below line G, as all 
seams eoino- together are of one length. The same effect as to a straighter curved line for back 
line of blade can be produced as well in the round as in the flat, by producing the flat side body 
seam line first and taking the amount at the three-eighths inch from the back, narrowing it from 
the three-eiohths inch to K. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS <Si 






Blade Seam — To Place. 



82 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SlIUULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



TUXEDO— SHAWL, ROLL. 

THE artistic etiect of this garment lies mostly in the formation of the front edge line, giving a 
well-shaped shawl collar and the continuance of shape of front from and below it; as it 
does not button it is at the will of the designer as to shape. In this, as well as in any 
coat rolling permanently low, an advance is ret|uired from C( ), and that amount taken from end 
shoulder as well, to straighten top of back from line A to D, as the shawl collar will not give 
as good lines if of too wide fold at back. The second is for notch collar effect. The standard 
collar gives the change for shawl roll. The amount of lowering AC) is taken from forepart in 
cases of low roll as opposite to that of short roll in adding to collar. Observe all previous 
changes in the difterent forms. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND ^^^THODS 



Notch Co/ /dr. 




Tuxedo — Shawl Roll. 



84 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



tuxedo-peaki:d lapel, with (OLLAIJ. 

THIS is formed much the same as the Albert or any garment with lapels cut off, in so tar 
as shaping forepart down (if for low roll) from AO as three-eighths down and three- 
eighths opening from line BO ; the second showing effect when lapel goes to place. 
The collar in this case from standard is well to take a part from step at AO, as it will give a 
better roll, while all required can be taken from either collar or fore part front. From AO down 
locate collar notch step on neck high or low, as desired. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



«5 




Tuxedo — Peaked Lapel, with Collar. 



86 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



TOURIST COAT. 

THE best way to produce this garment is to take your customer's sack or any pattern and 
produce from that. First fold paper on dotted Hnes the width you wish for the strap in 
both back and forepart, then fold it under until it meets half and half the width of strap, 
forming the same effect as the bellows pocket. Then place pattern of back at D at center of fold, 
and forepart pattern at C( ) the same, haviuL;- in mind the form as to standing'. The back strap 
should extend down the back straight, and the forepart should e.xtend to as near the center of 
forepart as possible, while it can be curved to conform to the shape. The material in this form of 
producing being in one piece, it can be adjusted at any time to requirements. The strap can be 
cut separately and sewed on, but it wastes more in seams and has not that loose easy effect of 
the bellows fold to open out where waist strap-band does not confine it, ant! is not as good tailored 
a garment. This is a straight front garment, and can be made to button up to AO with a turn- 
down collar, or a short roll with notch collar, though the button to AO is most effective. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 87 




Tourist Coat. 



88 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



PADDOCK COAT. 

THLS orarment can be produced either from the body frock pattern or the under sack. If for 
a sack front and side body cut off with frock back, it is best produced by the cutaway or 
any body frock. If with sack back and front, it is better to form it from a sack pattern. 
The first gives the peaked laiicl, the second the tly front. In either case a whole back can be 
appHed. \n the frock it will give a better effect to draft each side separate, as opposite to each 
other, than to fold paper and use crease fold as center; in this way it is more apt to drop or take 
from K at top of back shoulder and not give as good shaping. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 89 





Paddock Coat. 



90 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



THE CASSOtlv. 

THIS gown differs but little Irom the paddock ; had better be taken from it. The front closes 
and buttons to neck with a standing collar. The same rule for back and front skirt for- 
mation as foundation drafts A and B are observed. This differs only in extra amount of 
drapery, that being one-fourth. The first is how taken off (from a pattern), the second is pro- 
duced by using the one side body part. The measure around the neck should be taken from 
the back center to the front center to establish the collar notch, and the amount required for 
button stand added to it. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 91 




The Cassock. 



92 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



MISCELLANEOUS EXPLANATION— FKOM DIAGRAM NO. 1. 

THLS illustration is for the purpose of showing how to produce from a pattern the changes 
required for other effects, as from No. i side body to that of No. 2 ; from No. i forepart 
with No. 3 back and side body for a business cutaway frock ; No. 4 whole back with No. 
I forepart; No. 5 whole (a solid) sleeve also to separate half and half half at top forearm and 
one and one-fourth inches oft the under part at bottom or one and one-fourth in from the half 
off the unilcr, as No. 6; No. 6 showing the lengthening of sleeve as first marking top and to 
elbow, and by then going down the distance required, and by that distance it will locate the 
elbow as required lower; just the reverse will form the shortening of a sleeve, and in either case 
the cuff size in this method will re-form the same as the original ; No. 7 shows how to form a 
skirt for e.xtra drapery ; No. 8 shows how to produce more spring if required after the garment 
is finished. The lowering of skirt at the pleat fold will throw back the amount required, and 
will also shorten the skirt at that point. If there is no oudet on skirt at bottom to replace that 
amount, the back will require to be shortened for the amount. 

The previous mention of taking the fabric from where it is not required and placing where 
it is will be well illustrated above, and it is well to have it always in mind as being one of the 
most essential i'overninos in the business. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 93 




Explanation — From Diagram No. i. 



SYSTEM 

OF 

PATTERN ILLUSTRATING VESTS 



1^^ ^^^ ^^^ 9^^ 



g6 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



MEASURE SYSTEM— TO TAKE AND APPLY. 

TO take measures ior the vest in the use ol patterns, those given with ilhistratecl diagrams of 
rules are all that are required. Starting the first, second and third at back center of neck, 
fourth around the larger part ot blade and chest, fifth around the waist. It is well to take 
two measures at the waist, one at the smaller and one at the larger as to button, the same as 
would be in trousers for any corpulency of form. As a vest must button below the space of 
smaller waist, the lower measure would, it only one were taken, work the surer results. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND MP:TH0DS 97 




Measure System — To Take and Aj^plv. 



98 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



STNGLE-BKEASTED VEST (WITH COLLAR). 

THIS can be used either witli collar with stand cut on as No. 2, or with collar formed by the 
openin^r and seamed on seam to seam as shape. In the case of No. i the point CO re- 
mains the same as in draft, and being the same as that of the coat, the amount of coat 
collar stand distance above it places the vest without a collar stand that much lower. The one 
No. 2 with collar stand will require the amount of stand taken from CO. In either case a collar 
only extending on forepart from the opening to CO makes a thinner and less bunchy back than 
one extending around the back. No. 2 back shows how any extra amount can be left on back 
at top to turn under, and, by placing a thin stay between, will give sufficient strength and a much 
better effect. The back strap has much to do with a good shaped front, and is many times 
placed too high to have good influence. If it stands out from the form, a good remedy in this 
case, or in one of extra corpulency, is the placing of a button at the extreme front and working 
a buttonhole under, as in a By. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 99 




Single-Breasted Vest, with Collar. 



n.arc. 



loo DOOLITTLES STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



SINGLE-BREASTED VEST (WITHOUT COLLAR). 

THE effect of this vest is best displayed by the artistic line of front shaping'. Too much of a 
curved line at opening- has more of the effect of having been for collar than having been 
taken off. After establishing the distance for opening, the front can be gracefully lined 
below to form a good shape, as the top button can be placed u'ell below the opening, and with 
better effect. The pockets look best in line with the bottom of vest ; the small pocket on open- 
ing line goes inside on the facing, and is very useful to those using eye-glasses ; the middle 
pocket is useful for the watch, where persons use both upper and lower for other purposes. In 
fact an extra pocket or two will often express more than many mentions, as they are the proof 
of a desire to please. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS loi 




Single-Bkeasteu Vest, without Collar. 



I02 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



DRESS VEST— SINGLE AND DOUBLE-BKEASTED. 

THE only differiiiLr of this form from the single-notch collar No. i is the formation of front 
opening, and that is governed by the prevailing style. This, like all low-roll or open- 
front garments, requires more advancement from CO. In the dress vest, especially that 
of a heart-shaped front, there is often too much of a curving-in at line F, showing too much 
of an opening. The double forepart to dress vest is simply the extending of front as 
desired. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 103 



r" 




Dress Vest — Single and Double-Breasted. 



I04 DOOLITTLK'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



VEST ERECT FORM. 

THE change at CO, D, and at line A, will show that of the extra erect. The line IjO is for 
button stand, X line for front edge, and that forward from X amount for oudet. The 
oudet amount is only to go on the button stand side, the under, or left, side of vest front 
material to be cut off on the line of X, leaving only that of the top or right side standing. This 
will apply to all vests where no eyelet-holes are used for the buttons ; where eyelet-holes are 
used for buttons to clasp in, it is best to leave inside facing loose on button side, to cover the 
button shank and clasp. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 105 




Vest — Erect Form. 



io6 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



VEST— STOOPINii FORM. 

THLS lorm above line F is just the opposite of the erect, and while in the erect it is not 
essential to make any change below line F, it is more imiiortant to make change in the 
stooping lorm, as it is very essf-ntial to have mcjre Iront at waist line G, ant! for that 
amount forwanl it is best to take it from the back and so place. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



107 




Vest — SxoopiNr; Form. 



io8 DOOLITTLK'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



T 



VEST— CORPULENT FORM. 

Ills illustrates a three-size increase at the waist, also how to cut for drawing-in of bottom. 
The scale given with this is for use in all vest diagram illustrations given. 



D00LITTLP:'S straight shoulder rules, systems and methods 109 




Vest — Corpulent Form. 



no DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



MILn AKY VEST— TWO FOKMS OF COLLAIJ. 

THLS illustration will answer for any vest closing- ii|) to tlic neck, and can be used either with 
a standing or rolling collar ; if with rolling form, collar No. 2. This vest is often called 
tor as a winter or storm vest. In producing it it will be necessary to take the measure- 
ment of the neck from back to front center; that will establish for collar notch and add the 
usual button stand amount to it. The neck gorge is formed for the collar one-si.\th down from 
line B. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS in 




Military Vest — Two Forms ok Collar. 



112 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



DOUBLE-BKEA8TED VEST-ONE-PIECE COLLAR. 

THE only change required from the single to produce the double, use button stand line BO 
as guide in determining whatever amount of spread or double is required (BO being 
the line of opening in all cases, either single or double) ; from two and three-fourths to 
three inches out from B( ) is conservative. In measuring for any vest to double over, take the 
measure just the same as for single (and beyond that it is optional as to how it is shaped). A 
good line is formed by the continuance of the same extended curved line. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 113 




Double-Breasted Vest, One-Piece Collar. 



114 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



T 



DOUBLE-BKEASTED VEST— THKEE-PIECE t^OLLAR. 

HLS vest is the same as that of the one-piece collar, with the exception of the collar show- 
ing- three instead of one piece, also the taking out of a V-shape at the opening line and 
at the bottom, if required. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 115 




Double-Bkeasted Vest, Three-Piece Collar. 



ii6 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



DOUBLE-BKEASTED VEST— ALBEKT. 

THLS vest is the same as the Albert coat to waist in formation. In this the colhir is the same 
as a coat collar, and reqnires the taking away from the front shoulder-point, CO, that 
amount of vest collar stand. The collar is formed to back center and made up loose to 
permit of vest rolling to any opening- desired, as No. 2 illustration. It can be worn opening to 
bottom button or closed up to neck at top button. The lapel is cut separate in this (the same 
as a coat). The neck gorge depth from line B is one-sixth. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS- 117 




Double-Breasted Vest — Albert. 



n8 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 



CLEllICAL VEST. 

THLS illustration shows how to produce from the single vest pattern by placing in opposites, 
and, like the military vest and the Albert, goes down from line B one-sixth for neck 
gorge point for collar. The center from CO to CO is one-fourth and one-twenty-fourth, 
and, like the military, requires the neck measure taken the same to locate collar at front and to 
hnd out the amount to take out a V-shape. The first is represented when buttoned over, the 
continued ; second, as closed in front ; third, the piece attached to back to go under for the first 
to button on to. This third is so constituted that the front may be of a single fabric. The 
collar is cut to conform more to the shape of the neck, avoiding too much of in-working. 
Illustrated explanation on next page. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 119 




Clerical Vest — Diagram. 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 121 




Clerical Vest — Illustration. 



HINTS 

AND 

SUGGESTIONS 



^* t^ t^ ^> 



HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS. 

THERE are necessary qualities required in a cutter, not only for his own success, but as 
well that of his employer. One alone will not suffice to reach the high grade mark, while 
it may go as inspection of a certain standard ; all can, if willing, make advancement to better 
existing conditions, if not endowed with too much egotism. As it requires a combination 
of several, it is a little difficult to form and meet all criticisms, as well as to find all in one ; 
and to place the number is as hard as it is to enumerate the confiicting ideas coming up 
in garment producing. With those who are endowed with many gifts it is easy, and they 
are fortunate ; but those who are not so endowed must work the harder to acquire the same 
results, and while all cannot do so, a close application will be of great assistance. The most 
essential quality is scientific art, and that can be acquired by observation and practice, and no 
profession can reach a high grade without it. Art is a system of rules which requires the 
scientific in all builders or productions of skill ; it gives one importance ; it solves problems 
which the experienced know are of frequent occurrence, confronting one most certainly in this 
business. Good judgment is also of much value ; and it is well to cultivate how to dress in a 
stylish and tasty manner, as much depends on appearance, not only for your success, but as well 
that of your employer, and it is also the impression that will have great weight. Study to har- 
monize the blending of colors, as often a salesman will sell what in different garments do not 
harmonize either as to color, complexion, eyes or hair of the customer. Many are color-blind 
themselves, and do not understand why an article is not pleasing or becoming to the wearer. 
The combination of coat, vest and trousers, when all differ, is not a good selection, but there 
should be two of a kind, and all should be harmonious in color and blending. If occasion 
requires you to dress a window for display of material, observe well the effect as to arranging 
the fabrics, the colors blending in harmony one with the other, as two or three may be effective 
separately if well arranged as to each and every one, and so arranged as not to detract one 
from another, as a blue and brown, a blue and a dingy gray with a dull gray, the dull helping 
the bright and the bright harmful to the gray — red will brighten and enliven most all. The 
dressing of the neck should have much attention too, and dressed so as to harmonize with the 
garments being worn and as occasion requires ; and then, too, the eyesight is not alike in all, as 
oftentimes that which pleases the eye of one would be the opposite to another, and sometimes 
what looks pleasing to the eye to-day may not please you the ne.xt day. A striking contrast, 
if well blended to harmonize with the garments worn, is much more attractive than too much 
sameness of matching in dressing the neck. Avoid selling your patrons unbecoming fabrics or 
a style of garment unbecoming to their form, and always advocate, if becoming to your cus- 
tomer, the prevailing fashionable fabrics. Study form, as all cannot adopt the same, and there 
are always varied styles to select from. Some long neck forms can dress the neck with a five- 
inch collar and wear becomingly a short double-breasted sack coat on the loose box order, when 
the short neck and short form would look very much in a heap and in bad form. Always use 
your influence to help the corpulent or short form, and suggest for them the cutaway frock. In 
the corpulent the cutaway frock exposes his form the least of any style of garment, but it is in 
most cases the corpulent person who wants the straight front coat, thinking to hide his corpu- 

125 



126 DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SHOULDER RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 

lency, and not seeing how pronounced it makes him look, and that it should be avoided only when 
occasion re(|uires of one either a D. B. Frock or the Dress Coat. The tall and slim forms are 
usually of the same impression, only, of course, thinking the opposite. He requires the long coat 
only as occasion necessitates, and uses the D. B. short sack as giving the best effect. The shorter 
stout will appear taller and in better lorm in any garment otlier than the short sack of any 
design. To gain the confidence of your customer is one very strong point towards success, and 
never abuse it and you will make lasting friends, who will follow you and bring with them others. 
It is well, therefore, to make other studies than the mere one of producing garments, as confi- 
dence, once gained, will make your work easier. 

The tailoring business, to be made a success, is never learned too much or too well. 
Dress yourself as strikingly and as attractively as circumstances will allow, but never on the 
loud order. Do not wear ultra style in any form for the sake of so doing unless your form is 
adapted for it. One can dress stylishly, but if not becomingly, the effect is poor and will fall 
flat As remarked before, there is sufficient in use to enable all a good selection for a good 
appearance. Never talk a customer out of having a garment if becoming to him, for the reason 
of not knowing how, or it being too difficult, to produce, as the chances are you will lose a cus- 
tomer, if not his confidence. 

A little outlay will make you money, and it is better to borrow money to buy knowledge 
first than a stock of goods without the knowledge, as the chances are you will not be able to 
dispose of the goods if you have not used your judgment, gained by that knowledge, before 
purchasing the goods. Not sufficient knowledge is expensive for a cutter, too, as well as his 
employer ; but when you have gained it you have an asset and capital, exempt from taxes and 
not to be foreclosed and sold on judgment sale ; and, above all, avoid having that order of knowl- 
edge, when young in experience, that will not allow taking in more. V^alue a good tested pattern 
you have produced, and by it produce others ; as, should it be right tor Jones, and Smith should 
require it a size larger or smaller, alter it, and you will soon find yourseli working with better 
results and less trying on. There is no way a cutter can make himself of so much value as to 
advance to a point where trying on is not necessary. It is more the lack of confidence the cus- 
tomer has in a cutter that he expects to try on than the wish for it and the excuse that all expect 
it. There is no better way for a cutter to raise the standard of scientific tailoring to a high grade 
than to reach that standard where it can be avoided ; no way of gaining more confidence and 
so strong a following; as, when once established, the continuance will go far to avoid the annoy- 
ance of it. Without the trying on one will gain a reputation well deserved, and will compel, by 
force of results, a cutter to rely more on self than on trying on lor them. Once established, it 
will make a marked distinction and elevate a cutter, and he the tailoring business. There is 
many a garment harmed by trying on, and there are many that alter being tried on require cor- 
rections, and often there is as much to correct when finished after trying on as before. 

Avoid in measurement the calling out of the eigi Jis unless aftlicted with much prominence 
of self and have made a study of the proper attitude required to go with the eft'ect, as it has 
no other effective influence in garment producing but misleading to good judgment in the accu- 
racy when taking it. Afiectation, if endowed with it, is bad form, and much worse if acquired — 
that is best used on the theatrical stage, where it will receive more applause than in any branch 
of the tailoring business, as the followers of the admiring ones are in the small balance, and 
even those who do admire it will smile at the appearance of it as out of place in others, and, as if 
assuming familiarity in their set and not being of that set, will look upon it as assuming over 
them a superiority. 

Never allow advancing years to influence in any form of appearance or thought. Keep 
young, so that you do not get too old to observe and learn, as one is not judged by years as 
much as by appearance, looks and actions, and if you will feel and act old, your looks will surely 



DOOLITTLE'S STRAIGHT SH0ULDP:R RULES, SYSTEMS AND METHODS 127 



be in keeping ; but if, on the other hand, you will be judged as still of some value, there will be 
a place for you, as the old of to-day is a perplexing problem to many minds. Never, if in good 
health, is one too old for usefulness ; there is a place for all deserving seekers, if they do not rely 
on others to find it for them. The question is often asked. What is to become of the old in the 
tailoring business ? And this question should inspire the young to apply more energy and take 
advantage while having youth, as it is more the lack of energy that shortens the age for useful- 
ness than the increase of age in itself Pride keeps many from positions they could fill. There 
is no good reason, if in health, why any one is not of some use, and of sufficient use to be self- 
sustaining. Adapt yourself to circumstances and to surroundings ; and, with health, the question 
of what is to become of the old may be answered by it, and there will be no e.xcuse but that of 
disability, caused by good and sufficient reasons. 



(ttfaip- 21 1901 



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